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Vegetable Literacy by Deborah Madison
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Vegetable Literacy

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Vegetable Literacy by Deborah Madison
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Mar 12, 2013 | ISBN 9781607741916

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“I have always marveled at Deborah Madison’s deep knowledge of vegetables and her original creations, which taste just as delicious as they sound. Vegetable Literacy is her latest tour de force, a massive well of knowledge that makes you want to read and learn as well as cook. A fine achievement and a real inspiration for me.”
—Yotam Ottolenghi, author of Plenty and Jerusalem
“I have long been a fan of both Deborah’s vibrant food and her many thorough, thoughtful cookbooks. In Vegetable Literacy she offers, with abundant warmth and generosity, observations from years of garden-to-table cooking. Filled with fascinating botanical notes and inspired recipes that really explore vegetables from the ground up—it is a pleasure to read. The writing is beautiful and the lessons are astutely down to earth.”
—David Tanis, author of Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys
“Deborah Madison has taken vegetables to a whole new level. You’ll want to know what she knows—about botany, family pairings, and companion flavors on the plate. In cooking, Madison excels, but she’s also a natural with observation in the garden. Her passion is palpable, her scholarship tops, and her prose exquisite.”
—Amy P. Goldman, PhD, author of The Heirloom Tomato: From Garden to Table
“The are few people equipped with the curiosity, skill, and eye for observation required to construct a volume of this size and scope—and Deborah does it masterfully. Vegetable Literacy will shift the way both home and professional cooks think about the relationship between ingredients, and vegetables in particular. Using this book has felt like a missing puzzle piece snapping into place—inspiring, intimate, informative, and beautifully illustrated.”
—Heidi Swanson, author of Super Natural Every Day
“For those of us who love vegetables, Deborah Madison gives not only practical tips for buying them, but also a bounty of diverse recipes. This is a monumental cookbook from a gifted writer and one of the best cooks of our time.”
—David Lebovitz, author of Ready for Dessert and The Sweet Life in Paris
“In Vegetable Literacy, Deborah Madison elegantly folds together a joy of gardening, a fascination for botanical kinship, and an expansive knowledge of fine and simple cooking. This book is a nutrient-dense treasure.”
—Wendy Johnson, author of Gardening at Dragon’s Gate: a Work in the Wild and Cultivated World
“In her most exciting and innovative book to date, Deborah Madison shows us how the botany in our gardens can inform and guide our preparation and cooking of meals that will both delight and nourish us all. Come directly from the garden to the kitchen with Deborah, and you will never observe or use vegetables in an uninspired way again. This book feeds our imaginations and souls with more insights per page than any cookbook I know.”
—Gary Paul Nabhan, ethnobotanist and author of Coming Home to Eat and Desert Terroir

Table Of Contents

Introduction ~ 1  •  A Few Notes about Ingredients ~ 5
chapter one ~ The Carrot Family: Some Basic Kitchen Vegetables and a Passel of Herbs
(Umbelliferae or Apiaceae) ~ 9
chapter two ~ The Mint Family: Square Stems and Fragrant Leaves (Labiatae or Lamiaceae) ~ 45
chapter three ~ The Sunflower Family: Some Rough Stuff from Out of Doors
(Compositae or Asteraceae) ~ 59
chapter four ~ The Knotweed Family: Three Strong Personalities (Polygonaceae) ~ 103
chapter five ~ The Cabbage Family: The Sometimes Difficult Crucifers (Brassicaceae or Cruciferae) ~ 117
chapter six ~ The Nightshade Family: The Sun Lovers (Solanaceae) ~ 173
chapter seven ~ The Goosefoot and Amaranth Families: Edible Weeds, Leaves, and Seeds
(Amaranthaceae and Chenopodiaceae) ~ 215
chapter eight ~ The (Former) Lily Family: Onions and Asparagus (Liliaceae) ~ 243
chapter nine ~ The Cucurbit Family: The Sensual Squashes, Melons, and Gourds (Cucurbitaceae) ~ 277
chapter ten ~ The Grass Family: Grains and Cereals (Poaceae, formerly Gramineae) ~ 299
chapter eleven ~ The Legume Family: Peas and Beans (Leguminosae or Fabaceae) ~ 333
chapter twelve ~ The Morning Glory Family: The Sweet Potato (Convolvulaceae) ~ 385
Acknowledgments ~ 391  •  Sources ~ 393  •  Bibliography ~ 395  •  Index ~ 396
chapter one
The Carrot Family
            Chilled Spicy Carrot Soup with Yogurt Sauce
            Carrot Soup with Tangled Collard Greens in Coconut Butter and Dukkah
            Ivory Carrot Soup with a Fine Dice of Orange Carrots
            Carrot Almond Cake with Ricotta Cream
            Yellow Carrots with Coconut Butter and Lime
            Winter Carrots with Caraway Seeds, Garlic, and Parsley
            Salsa Verde with Chinese Celery
            Celery Leaf and Vegetable Potage
            Celery Salad with Spring’s First Herbs and Mâche
            Meyer Lemon and Shallot Vinaigrette
            Celery Salad with Pears, Endive, Blue Cheese, and Walnuts
            Celery Root Soup with Walnut-Celery “Salad”
            Celery Root and Hash Brown Cake
            Celery Root Mash Flecked with Celery Leaves
            Fennel Stock
            Braised Fennel Wedges with Saffron and Tomato
            Shaved Fennel Salad with Celery and Finely Diced Egg
            Fennel Tea
            Parsnip and Carrot Puree
            Parsnip-Cardamom Custard
            Roasted Parsnips with Horseradish Cream
            Rhubarb with Angelica Leaves
            Anise Shortbreads with Orange Flower Water
            Caraway Seed Cake
            Chervil-Chive Butter
            Cilantro Salsa with Basil and Mint
            Dukkah (Toasted Nuts and Seeds with Cumin)
            Dill-Flecked Yogurt Sauce
            Parsley Sauce
            Braised Parsley Root
chapter two
The Mint Family
            Anise Hyssop Tea
            Lemon Basil–Mint Lemonade
            Basil Puree
            Thick Marjoram Sauce with Capers and Green Olives
            Orange and Rosemary Compote
            Butter Seasoned with Rosemary, Sage, and Juniper
            Sage Tea
            Sage and Fennel Tea with Fresh Mint
            Sage Bread Crumbs
            Chia Water
            Ground Chia for Cereals
            Lemon Thyme Tea
            Lavender Syrup
            White Nectarines in Lavender Syrup
chapter three
The Sunflower Family
            Sunchoke Bisque with Pumpkin Seed Oil and Sunflower Sprouts
            Sautéed Jerusalem Artichokes with Rosemary and Smoked Salt
            Braised Jerusalem Artichokes with Mushrooms and Tarragon
            Creamy Cardoon Soup with Thyme
            Cardoon Risotto
            Cardoon Risotto Cakes from Leftover Risotto
            Steamed Whole Artichokes
            A Crispy Artichoke Sauté
            Roasted Artichokes
            Griddled or Grilled Artichoke Wedges
            Braised Baby Artichokes with Tarragon Mayonnaise
            Artichokes with Walnut Tarator Sauce
            Fall Artichokes, Potatoes, and Garlic Baked in Clay
            A Cheerful Winter Salad of Red Endive, Avocado, Arugula, and Broccoli Sprouts
            Shredded Radicchio with Walnut Vinaigrette, Hard-Cooked Egg, and Toasted                      Bread Crumbs
            Walnut-Shallot Vinaigrette
            Radicchio, Escarole, and Red Mustard with Golden Beets and Avocado
            Grilled or Griddled Radicchio with Gorgonzola and Walnuts
            Griddled Endive
            Braised Endive with Gorgonzola
            Treviso Radicchio Gratin
            Escarole and Butter Lettuce Salad with Hazelnuts and Persimmons
            Sunflower and Frisée Salad
            Bitter Greens with Walnut Oil and Mustard Vinaigrette
            Escarole, Green Garlic, and Artichoke Stem Tart in Yeasted Crust
            Escarole and Potato Hash
            Limestone Lettuce Salad with Creamy Herb Dressing
            Romaine Salad with Avocado-Sesame and Shiso (Perilla) Vinaigrette
            Chiffonade of Butter Lettuce with Parsley and Green Zebra Tomatoes
            Butter or Looseleaf Lettuce Salad with Tomato
            Salsify, Jerusalem Artichoke, and Burdock Soup with Truffle Salt
            Sautéed Salsify with Hazelnuts
            Tarragon Mayonnaise with Orange Zest
            Egg Salad with Tarragon, Parsley, and Chives
chapter four
The Knotweed Family
            Sorrel Sauce with Yogurt
            Sorrel Sauce with Watercress, Parsley, and Chives
            Creamy Sorrel Sauce
            Red Rhubarb–Berry Ice Cream
            Rhubarb, Apple, and Berry Pandowdy
            Rhubarb-Raspberry Compote
            Yeasted Buckwheat Waffles
            Buckwheat Noodles with Kale and Sesame Salad
            Buckwheat–Five Spice Free-Form Apple Tart
            Multicolored Carrot Salad with Rau Ram, Mint, and Thai Basil
chapter five
The Cabbage Family
            Braised Summer Cabbage
            Wilted Red Cabbage with Mint and Goat Feta
            Braised Cabbage with Chewy Fried Potatoes, Feta, and Dill
            Savoy Cabbage on Toast
            Cabbage Panade
            Collard Greens Soup with Sweet Potatoes and Crumbled Coconut Butter
            Tangled Collard Greens with Sesame
            Long-Cooked Collards with Chiltepins, Spices, and Coconut Butter
            Sautéed Mustard Greens with Garlic and Peanuts
            Elissa’s Mustard Green Dumplings with Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce
            Mustard Butter with Lemon Zest and Shallot
            Mustard-Caper Vinaigrette
            Mustard-Cream Vinaigrette
            Kale with Smoked Salt and Goat Cheese
            Kale and Potato Mash with Romesco Sauce
            Smoky Kale and Potato Cakes
            Shredded Purple Kale, Sun Gold Tomatoes, Feta, and Mint
            Tuscan Kale with Anchovy-Garlic Dressing
            Kale Salad with Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing
            Kale Pesto with Dried Mushrooms and Rosemary
            Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Mustard-Cream Vinaigrette
            Brussels Sprouts with Caraway Seeds and Mustard
            Slivered Brussels Sprouts Roasted with Shallots
            Cauliflower Salad with Goat Havarti, Caraway, and Mustard-Caper Vinaigrette
            Cauliflower Soup with Coconut, Turmeric, and Lime
            Cauliflower with Saffron, Pepper Flakes, Plenty of Parsley, and Pasta
            Broccoli and Green Zebra Tomato Salad
            Steamed Broccoli with Mustard Butter, Pine Nuts, and Roasted Pepper
            Broccoli Romanseco with Black Rice and Green Herb Sauce
            Broccoli Bites with Curried Mayonnaise
            Thinly Sliced Scarlet Salad Turnips with Sea Salt and Black Sesame Seeds
            Golden Turnip Soup with Gorgonzola Toasts
            Gorgonzola Butter
            Turnips with White Miso Butter
            Pickled Scarlet Turnips and Carrots
            Sautéed Broccoli Rabe with Garlic
            Rutabaga and Apple Bisque
            Roasted Rutabaga Batons with Caraway and Smoked Paprika
            Winter Stew of Braised Rutabagas with Carrots, Potatoes, and Parsley Sauce
            Finely Shaved Radish, Turnip, and Carrot Salad with Hard Cheese and Spicy Greens
            Spring Garden Hodgepodge of Radishes, Leeks, and Peas
Depending . . .
            Radish Top Soup with Lemon and Yogurt
            Kohlrabi Salad with Green Onions, Parsley, and Frizzy Mustard Greens
            Steamed Kohlrabi Rounds with Lemon and Chives
            Kohlrabi Slaw with Creamy Herb and Avocado Dressing
            Horseradish Cream
            Cress-Flavored Cream Cheese with Nasturtium Petals
            Watercress Sauce with Thick Yogurt
            Wilted Arugula and Seared Mushroom Salad with Manchego Cheese
chapter six
The Nightshade Family
            Potato Soup: One and Many
            Fingerling Potatoes Browned in Sage- and Rosemary-Infused Ghee
            First-of-the-Season Fingerling Potatoes with Fines Herbes
            Yellow-Fleshed Potatoes with Sorrel Sauce
            Potato Cakes with Red Chile Molido
            Red Chile Paste
            Grilled Pepper Relish
            McFarlin’s Pepper Sauce
            Romesco Sauce
            Pimientos Stuffed with Herb-Laced Cheese
            Chilled Avocado Soup with Poblano Chile and Pepitas
            Sautéed Shishito Peppers: Summer’s Best New Bite
            Smoky Roasted Pepper Salad with Tomatoes and Lemon
            Halloumi with Seared Red Peppers, Olives, and Capers
            Jimmy Nardello Frying Peppers with Onion
            Griddled Eggplant Rounds
Eggplant Tartines
            Spheres of Eggplant with a Crispy Coat
            Small Plate of Grilled Eggplant with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce and Pomegranate Molasses
            Slender Eggplant with Miso Sauce
            Roasted Eggplant Salad with Tomatoes and Capers
            Eggplant Gratin in Parmesan Custard
            Eggplant, Tomato, and Zucchini Gratin
            Tomato and Cilantro Soup with
Black Quinoa
            Tomato and Celery Salad with Cumin, Cilantro, and Avocado
            Beefsteak Tomatoes Baked with Feta Cheese and Marjoram
            Nutty-Seedy Whole Wheat Toast with Ricotta and Tomatoes
            Comforting Tomatoes in Cream with Bread Crumbs and Smoked Salt
            Fried Green Tomato Frittata
            Damaged Goods Gratin of Tomatoes, Eggplant, and Chard
            A Fresh Tomato Relish
            Salt-Roasted Tomatoes
            Simplest Summer Tomato Sauce
chapter seven
The Goosefoot and
Amaranth Families
            Open-Faced Sandwich of Spinach, Caramelized Onions, and Roasted Peppers
            Spinach Crowns with Sesame-Miso Sauce
            Supper Spinach
            Rice with Spinach, Lemon, Feta, and Pistachios
            Quelites with Onion and Chile
            Quelites, Mushrooms, and Tortilla Budin
            Steamed Beets
            Steamed, Then Roasted or Panfried Beets
            A Fine Dice of Chioggia Beets and Red Endive with Meyer Lemon and Shallot Vinaigrette
            Grated Raw Beet Salad with Star Anise
            Chilled Beet Soup with Purslane Salad and Sorrel Sauce with Yogurt
            Seared Beets with Walnuts over Wilted Kale with Micro Greens
            Sautéed Rainbow Chard with the Stems
            Chard Stems with Sesame-Yogurt Sauce and Black Sesame Seeds
            Chard Soup with Cumin, Cilantro, and Lime
            Chard, Ricotta, and Saffron Cakes
            Basic Quinoa
            Cucumber Soup with Yogurt and Red Quinoa
            Black Quinoa Salad with Lemon, Avocado, and Pistachios
            Summer Quinoa Cakes with Beet Greens and Beet Salad
            Soft Corn Tacos with String Cheese and Epazote

chapter eight
The (Former) Lily Family
            Caramelized Sweet Onions
            Pan-Griddled Red Onions
            Sweet-and-Sour Cipollini, Small Red Onions, and Shallots with Raisins
            Torpedo Onion and Sweet Pepper Tian
            Pearl Onions Braised in Cider with Apples, Rosemary, and Juniper
            Mushrooms Stuffed with Caramelized Onions and Blue Cheese
            A Fragrant Onion Tart
            Grilled Onions with Cinnamon Butter
            Young Leeks with Oranges and Pistachios
            Leek and Fennel Soup with Garlic Scapes and Chives
            Braised Leeks with Lovage and Lemon
            Chive and Saffron Crepes
            Ramped Up Spinach Soup with Lovage and Sorrel
            Supper Eggs with Ramps
            Braised Ramps and Asparagus
            Mortar and Pestle Garlic
            Garlic Scape and Walnut Pesto
            Mashed Potatoes with Black Garlic, Ghee, and Shallots
            Asparagus with Salsa Verde and Scarlet Onions
            Roasted Asparagus with Chopped Egg, Torn Bread, and Red Wine Vinegar
            Griddled Asparagus with
Tarragon Butter
            Asparagus and Leek Flan
            Asparagus and Fava Bean Salad
chapter nine
The Cucurbit Family
            Roasted Squash Seeds
            Winter Squash Soup with Red Chile and Mint
            Butternut Squash Soup with Coconut Milk, Miso, and Lime
            Winter Squash Puree with Tahini, Green Onions, and Black Sesame Seeds
            Roasted Winter Squash with Parsley, Sage, and Rosemary
            Winter Squash Wedges or Rounds with Gorgonzola Butter and Crushed Walnuts
            Zucchini Logs Stewed in Olive Oil with Onions and Chard
            Sautéed Zucchini with Mint, Basil, and Pine Nuts
            Griddled Scallop Squash
            Summer Squash Tartines with Rosemary and Lemon
            Ann’s Squash Blossom Frittata
            Roasted Delicata Squash Half Rounds with Dukkah and Tahini-Yogurt Sauce
            Roasted Spaghetti Squash with Winter Tomato Sauce
            Melon and Cucumber Salad with Black Pepper and Mint
            Cucumber-Lovage Sandwich with Sweet Onion
            Lazy Cucumber and Onion Pickle
chapter ten
The Grass Family
            Simmered Spelt and Other Large Grains
            Grain, Herb, and Buttermilk Soup for Hot, Hot Days
            Farro and White Bean Soup with Savoy Cabbage
            Frikeh with Cucumbers, Lovage, and Yogurt
            Oat Groats
            Breakfast Oat Pudding with Raisins, Honey, and Toasted Almonds
            Chewy Oat and Maple Pancakes
            Quick Bread of Rye, Emmer, and Corn
            Rye-Honey Cake with Five-Spice Powder and Dates
            Toasted Millet “Polenta”
            Golden Millet Cakes
            Millet Cakes with Tomato Sauce
            Soft Millet for Breakfast or Supper
            Barley Tea
            Toasted Barley and Burdock with Dried Trumpet Mushrooms
            Creamy Barley Soup with Mushrooms and Leeks
            Corn off and on the Cob
            Corn Simmered in Coconut Milk with Thai Basil
            Corn Cookies with Almonds and Raisins
            Buttermilk Skillet Corn Bread with Heirloom Flint Cornmeal
            Brown Rice with Burdock, Black Sesame, and Toasted Fennel Seeds
            Black Rice
            Black Rice with Coconut Milk and Egyptian Onions
            Collard Leaf Rolls with Black Rice in a Vegetable-Coconut Broth
            Black Rice with Wilted Red Cabbage, Yellow Peppers, and Aniseeds
            Pea, Dill, and Rice Salad with Lemon Zest
            Native Wild Rice
            Native Wild Rice with Celery Root and Celery Leaves
            Savory Wild Rice Crepe-Cakes
chapter eleven
The Legume Family
            Pea, Leek, and Sorrel Soup, Hot or Chilled
            Peas in Butter Lettuce
            Snow Peas with Sesame Oil, Tarragon, and Toasted Sesame Seeds
            Peas with Baked Ricotta and Bread Crumbs
            Fava, or Yellow Split Pea Spread
            Green Pea Fritters with Herb-Laced Crème Fraîche
            Shelling Pea, Corn, and Squash Ragout
            Black-Eyed Peas on Rice with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce and Smoked Salt
            Roasted Green Peanuts in the Shell
            Peanut and Sweet Potato Soup
            Peanut Sauce Made with Whole Peanuts
            Peanut Butter Cookies Studded with Salted Roasted Peanuts
            Golden Beets with Fava Beans and Mint
            Fava Bean Hummus with Cumin
            Pardina Lentils with Smoked Salt
            Lentils with Garlicky Walnuts, Parsley, and Cream
            Red Lentil Soup with Amaranth Greens
            Beluga Lentil Salad with Cucumbers, Purslane and Green Coriander Buds
            Red Lentil and Coconut Soup with Black Rice, Turmeric, and Greens
            Green Lentil Soup with Plenty of Leaves, Herbs, and Spices
            Soy-Braised Tofu with Five-Spice Powder
            Panfried Tempeh with Trimmings
            Salad Dressing with Shiro Miso and Sesame
            White Bean and Fennel Salad
            Pot Beans with Epazote and Corn Tortillas
            Rio Zape Beans with Salt-Roasted Tomatoes
            Tepary Bean Puree with Toasted Cumin and Mexican Oregano
            Tepary Bean Gratin
            Blue Lake Beans with Shallots, Pistachios, and Marjoram
            Sultan’s Green or Golden Crescent Beans with Basil Puree
            Rattlesnake Beans or Haricots Verts with Sun Gold Tomatoes, Shallots, and Olives
            Chickpea and Tomato Soup with Garlic-Rubbed Bread and Beet Greens
            Crushed Chickpeas with Sage
            Crispy Chickpea Triangles
            Chickpea Fries with Smoked Paprika Mayonnaise
chapter twelve
The Morning Glory Family
            Sweet Potatoes with White Miso Ginger Sauce
            Asian Sweet Potatoes with Coconut Butter
            Japanese Sweet Potato Soup with Rosemary and Thyme
            Sweet Potato Flan with Maple Yogurt and Caramel Pecans

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