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Cheers to the Publican, Repast and Present by Paul Kahan, Cosmo Goss and Rachel Holtzman
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Cheers to the Publican, Repast and Present

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Cheers to the Publican, Repast and Present by Paul Kahan, Cosmo Goss and Rachel Holtzman
Hardcover $40.00
Sep 19, 2017 | ISBN 9780399578564

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“Paul Kahan has a global perspective with a Midwestern sensibility and the uncanny ability to put not only flavors, but also life, in balance. ‘Soulful’ and ‘authentic’ describe both the man and what he brings to the table. He is truly an inspiration.”
–Chris Bianco, chef/owner of Pizzeria Bianco and author of Bianco
“I have always wondered—perhaps somewhat jealously—why the food at The Publican in Chicago is so delicious. Then, one lovely April morning I sat down with my cappuccino and began to read Paul Kahan’s first cookbook. I couldn’t stop reading—and now I know how Paul packs so much flavor into his food. The effort he puts into sourcing and his balance of seasoning, marinating, cooking, and saucing is what turns his cooking into a concert of flavor. These recipes are so clearly written they will be easy to make at home. This is the most delicious book I’ve ever read.”
—Nancy Silverton, co-owner of The Mozza Group and author of Mozza at Home
“Paul Kahan is a Midwestern culinary wizard. He’s my type of chef—strong-willed, inquisitive, funny, and hungry—and I adore him for his stubborn ‘Why not?’ response to anything difficult. Cosmo Goss, is the perfect cohort for Paul. Together, they have created a new paradigm of American cooking, an amalgam of all the bounty the country has to offer, served lustily and with reverence. A terrific cookbook.”
—Jonathan Waxman, chef/owner of Barbuto and author of Italian, My Way
“My first stop when I arrive in Chicago—without exception—is The Publican. It’s thrilling to read the amazing stories that represent so much more than just the recipes and see the inspiration that comes from the community of growers and friends who support the restaurant. Cheers to Paul Kahan and Cosmo Goss for this long overdue book!”
—Stuart Brioza, co-chef/owner of State Bird Provisions and coauthor of State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook
“This is a fascinating glimpse into what makes The Publican tick, filled with invaluable lessons in respect and responsibility plus pure deliciousness.”
—Sean Brock, chef/owner of Husk and author of Heritage
“Paul Kahan has mastered simplicity in cooking, and The Publican cookbook is quite simply as honest and authentic as a cookbook gets. Cheers to the Publican, indeed!”
—Marc Vetri, chef/owner of Vetri and author of Mastering Pasta

“Any page of the book reveals this food to be anything but simple and humble, no matter how many times Kahan and Goss assert that it is: The recipes are layered and multidimensional, they often ask the home cook to give half a dozen pans (or half a dozen days) to dinner.
What this food has, instead of simplicity, is clarity: of flavor, philosophy, and intention, catapulted beyond the twee and precious by something that feels like recklessness but is actually just extraordinary skill. Whenever I’m at the Publican, I marvel to whomever I’m eating with that this is how I want to eat all the time. It turns out that’s possible, but it’s a lot harder than it looks. Maybe that’s the magic of it all.”
– Eater

“This book—the first from the chefs behind one of Chicago’s most treasured spots—is one giant toast to convivial American cuisine. It reads like a constitution, complete with an Anti-Tweezer Manifesto, containing mantras like “product maketh the dish,” and recipes for the barbecue carrots and sour beer-steamed mussels that have amassed devout followers.”

“If you can’t score a seat at Paul Kahan’s white-hot Chicago beer hall, feast your eyes on his recipes for grilled sardines, braised pork shoulder, and more.”

Table Of Contents


Recipe Contents viii

Introduction 1

The Publican Pantry 8

To the Mighty Vegetable 11

To Bivalves, Mollusks, 
and Those Who Shell Before Us 83

To Noble Creatures Of The Sea 
and the Much Maligned 123

To the Swine, Bovine, 
and Particularly Fowl 161

To the Mad Butcher: 
Charcuterie and Sausages 205

To What’s Left Behind: 
Offal, Scraps, and Leftover Bits 239

To Yeast and Flour:
Bread and Everything on It 271

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